The Central Kalahari Game Reserve took on new meaning for me when we visited in 2022. Even though I grew up in Southern Africa the Kalahari was this word attached to some distant arid land. My mother would talk of “The Lost World of the Kalahari” but at the time it’s concept went over my head. Now, in my latter years it has become this romantic, fascinatingly remote part of Botswana that lures me but I don’t know why.
It’s September 2024 and we’re back in Maun, founded in 1915 and named after the San (Bushman) word Maung and ready for another 2 week trek into the bush. We’re met at the airport by our guide, Moscow, and transferred to our hotel to prepare for our departure early the next morning. There are only four of us on the Kalahari segment and we find each other over dinner on the patio. Rose & I and two Sabine’s, one from Austria & the other from Germany each with a common goal of participating in a Bushways “mobile” safari.
Load up and we’ve soon left the paved road behind us and are onto the sandy roads of the bush.
I step away for a leak and find Mr Lizard scuttling across the sand. He pauses long enough for a photo op and then quickly dissapears.
We are on our way to Deception Valley Private Reserve, adjacent to the Central Kalahari, where we camp and game drive for 3 days. I find out that it is a relatively recent reserve made up of an old cattle ranch and hunting concession. That might explain why the Kudu, which are plentiful, but also extremely skittish at the proximity of our vehicle.
Next morning Moscow leads us to a pride of lions that are up & about, playing and jostling with each other.
Game are kept alive by waterholes fed by boreholes that pump up water. We get a tip that a leopard is nearby and it still takes us a second loop around to find her patiently waiting her prey.
She’s there, watching guinea fowl but not moving. We come back later but she had moved on and there was no indication of a kill at this water hole.
The San people inhabited this area well before the Europeans found it. Unfortunately their lifestyle has been completely sidelined and they now supplement themselves by giving us tourists a window into how they used to live.
We move on and enter the Central Kalahari Game Reserve through the Matswere Gate. Always a formality of signing in and out but we get to drive to our camp overlooking a waterhole.
First time seeing a bat eared fox but they too are skittish and I was lucky to catch this guy looking back before they took off.
We spot a wild cat under a bush, almost like your cat at home but out in the wilds.
Last day and we’re driving towards the gate. Moscow must have been tipped off because all of a sudden he veers off to the right and we spot a cheetah intent on stalking it’s prey. The cheetah takes off but the prey gets away. We now stalk the predator and catch a few mesmerizing shots.
Now on our way up to Boteti River and a night in a lodge – hot showers, meals and relaxation!
The Boteti river is dry but still teaming with game foraging on whatever and drinking from the last of the pools.
Back through Maun as we restock and pickup the rest of the group for the remainder of the safari. It’s amazing how 12 like minded strangers will get to know each other and become a family over the next 11 days.
We will spend 3 days in and on the delta. Put in mokoro’s we are “poled” through the waters to our island home for the duration.
We camp under the stars and take walks from our camp to interact with our surroundings.
Catch a Grey Heron taking off on our way out of the delta. Our last night is with the truck next to some water. We are spoilt by the game that wander by and we are reminded that we are their guests in their home.
Next Moremi, Savuti Channel, Chobe River and Vic Falls.