Guerrero Negro is not much to write home about except for the calving whales, large Osprey population and salt mines. Never the less it’s on our itinerary to go whale watching. I should have got a heads up when our guide said that it was his first tour of the season: ie you guys are here too early in the season. None the less we had a good boat ride out to the carefully controlled viewing area and were able to shadow a few whales as they maneuvered through their lazy cycle of diving and then a couple of shallow wallows before they dived again. Then we saw one breaching and there were oohs and aahs each time it propelled itself into an almost all out of the water trajectory.
After Guerrero Negro Mex 1 crosses over from the Pacific to the gulf and descends down into Santa Rosalia via the Devils Grade, 1100′ in a 7 mile descent I’m told. The Pacific is wild and untamed but the Gulf is mellow warm and inviting. We wind south for a while, roll through Mulege and enter the Bahia Concepcion. Down another short grade and Playa Santispac comes into view, an iconic beach camping spot that will be our home for three nights.
It is idyllic and wanting to stretch our legs we head for a hill on the one claw of the bay. Great view back and a glimpse of what’s around the corner.
Next day we grab the bikes and head out on a rocky road over to the neighboring bay. Explore the undulating dirt roads for curiosity and seeking exercise.
Dale is from BC, Canada and has a boat with him. We pass each other, him in the water and us on our bikes, pausing to exchange route info.
Loreto is the next stop and our campground is a short distance from the town center. There is a small cruise ship anchored off shore and the town is buzzing with tourists. Had a rattlesnake beer at El Zopilote Brewery but found it a bit harsh for my taste, enjoyed the ambiance though.
Susan had recommended Asadero Super Burro for the best burrito’s in town and we set off in the morning for a breakfast burrito. Should have checked their hours first as they only open at 6pm – maybe next time.
There is a bit of a long drive inland and down to La Paz on the gulf side. La Paz itself is a sprawling city and we headed for some dry camping at Tecolte Beach on the northern spur past the ferry terminal for rides over to Mazatlan on the mainland. Good opportunities to explore both on foot and bike or drink margaritas at one of the beach restaurants.
From here we head down to Los Barriles, our turnaround point – Next post.